Calabria, the sea, and religious sentiment Calabria
An itinerary along the SS18 highway, which might just as easily be followed by sea, sailing on the crystal clear waters of the Tyrrhenian sea
None other than Ulysses, Homer's legendary hero, accompanies us along the first stage of this exhilarating itinerary. Opposite the splendid coast of Praia a Mare we stop to admire the island of Dino, which the epic tells, served as landing stage for the great protagonist of the Odysseus. Built so as to protect the Island of Dino and the Gulf of Policastro, there is the Norman fortress dating back to the 12th century. The Sanctuary of the Madonna della Grotta is linked to another legend, which tells of the adventures of a ship's captain who, in 1326, secreted a wooden effigy of the Virgin in a gorge. From the sea, one can witness a series of spectacular caves puncturing the cliffs of Fiuzzi, before arriving at Capo Pulinaro and the Arco Magno; a natural arch of rock close to San Nicola Arcella.
Continuing along the SS18 highway we arrive at Scalea, the coastal village built, as it name suggests, almost vertically, in striking tiered formation. With its red roofs and narrow medieval alleyways, Scalea is one of the most enchanting towns in the area. Well worthy of visit, the Talao Tower; built by Carlo V at the end of the 16th century so as to defend the town from attack, and the splendid Church of Santa Maria d'Episcopio. Just a few kilometers inland from Scalea, we reach Santa Maria del Cedro, where to taste the Cedro; the citrus fruit which has become one of the symbols of Calabria, and especially delicious when candied.
Once again on the highroad, we return to the Valle del Leo and head towards the town of Cirella. The old town of Cirella (Cirella Vecchia), dating back to the middle ages, was abandoned by its inhabitants shortly after the French maritime bombardment of 1806. Now a quite fascinating ghost town, Cirella Vecchia with its beautiful church, castle and picturesque cobbled streets, has remained almost exactly as it was left some two hundred years ago. The new town is known for its sandy beach from where to admire the island of Cirella, with its imposing watch tower.
The next part of our journey along Calabria's Tyrrhenian coast takes us to the town of Diamante: a veritable open air art gallery. Since 1981, the walls of the houses in the historic center have provided Italian and international artists with massive canvases for some quite impressive works of art. Another 12 kilometers along the SS18 and we reach the aptly named Belvedere Marittimo, gazing out across the sea and home to the 11th century castle built by Ruggero il Normanno. In the same area, just a few kilometers away, there is another important castle; that of the Principe di Sangineto, which, with its massif cylindrical towers, is easily visible from Lido delle Crete.
Continuing along the cliffs of Rizzi, we come to Cetrara, famous both for its citrus fruit and for the exquisite examples of Baroque architecture to be found within the town walls; buildings such as the Church of San Benedetto and the Church del Ritiro. Travelling further South, we reach Guardia Piemontese, with its "porta del sangue", the "bloody gateway" which tells a gruesome tale of religious intolerance. It was in this town, that a community of followers of the Valdese faith became the victims of ferocious persecution during the Inquisition. A few kilometers from Guardia Piemontese, the atmosphere lightens considerably as we approach the shimmering blue waters lapping the Scoglio della Regina.
A fusion of sea and religious sentiment is commonplace in Calabria; a fusion which finds its maximum expression in the seafront town of Paola. Here, in the city of San Francesco, one finds not only the monumental Sanctuary dedicated to the saint but also the Baroque Church of the Madonna of Montevirgine, the Church of the Rosario, and the Church of the Santissima Annunziata.
Our journey draws to a close in Amantea, famous for its long beaches and the breathtaking view to be admired from the belvedere of Fiumefreddo Bruzio.
